FAQ

At USADiesel.com, we understand how important your truck is to you!

       With Ford 6.0L FICM modules, we strive to complete repairs within 24-48hrs and are typically able to maintain that level of service without any trouble. 

      If you have an ECM, IDM, instrument cluster or some other module type, repair times typically run 2 weeks. There are a wide array of module types, with varying levels of complexity and literally millions of parts/components that may be required to repair them. As a result, repair times can flex mildly per module type, but 2 weeks is our standard turn time.

      Speed is always important to us, as we know it is to you. But....QUALITY takes position #1. When we repair a module, our #1 prevailing objective is to provide a high quality, reliable repair service. 

                    *** If you seek to minimize your down time, with most of our modules we have an exchange program. We'll send you a new module and you simply send your your failed module in to us. (your "Core") We also sell replacement modules outright, so whatever your needs, we likely have a service to meet them. 

If you can't afford to be down, we understand! For $75 more than you would have spent having us repair your module, we can ship you out a replacement - in most cases the same day you order it! This is not a loaner program - you trade your dead FICM in for a rebuilt and ready to go version. Essentially, for this non-refundable $50, you avoid the shipping times and associated delays of getting your presently dead or dying module to us.

Just tell us the service level you'd want performed (Basic, Premium, Ultra), tell us what software you want loaded on it (OEM Ford or the dramatically better aftermarket software from PHP), what shipping you'd like, and we're all set.

This is less than you'd be out with expediting the shipping of your dead module to us! Of course, under this program we also need to receive your old module back to our shop within 30 days.

Cores have a $350 value, but we don't charge the full 'core charge' upfront. We charge a $75 partial core deposit, and we have to charge the remaining $275 of the $350 value for any cases where we don't get your core back to us within the timeframe. If you get us your core back after 30 days, we follow the schedule below. It's a good idea to tape a scrap of corrugated cardboard over the connectors to protect them in shipping. Connector damage, for example, devalues a core $75 - few want a module delivered to them with broken tabs, etc. Yikes!

To get started, call us at 515-897-4459!

Note: If you want your FICM or other ordered items shipped insured, please ask us to add it to your order. Even though we have yet to have even one parcel stay lost, and even though only one in a thousand even experience a delay, we cannot be responsible for later deliveries, lost shipments, or other eventualities. Insurance payments are paid out on the carrier's payout schedule.

So...be careful with your cores and get them sent back in timely!

If you are looking to have a tune-only service performed, this cannot be done on exchange as what we'd be sending you is a freshly rebuilt module and what you would be sending is, well, a not-new unit that we'd have to perform a rebuild on to make it a saleable product. If you are merely looking for a tune, check out our tuner rentals!  Of course, if you wanted to have the benefit of having a freshly rebuilt module, give us a call and we can set you up!!

                                          Core Fee Schedule reference

Note: Should any customer, regardless of whether they are an end-user or a dealer, have outstanding payables with us, no warranty claims will be honored.

Get us your core back promptly, avoid these extra fees altogether, and maintain your warranty! 

When you purchase one of our FICM units, there's nothing required beyond installing the unit. We'll send you a unit that is programmed/tuned to your specific model year, and all you need to do is to install the unit. We do encourage people to check their batteries, injector wiring harness, ECM wiring, alternator voltage regulator and main power and ground cables. This is to ensure that any adverse/out of spec conditions that may have damaged your old FICM are no longer present, and will not damage your brand new FICM unit.

There are other FICM repair options that talk about the benefits of moving to a higher voltage on your FICM. In fact, following consumer demand, we used to offer these voltage increases as well but stopped over four years ago.  What we've learned over time is that it is just a bad idea. These modules get hot enough as a result of sitting atop the engine - stressing them further by adding additional heat is just not a recipe for success.  Regardless, you can get better results by opting for an aftermarket FICM tune.

The fuel injectors for your 6.0 are built to live in a world of provided voltage in the 45-50 volt range.  Asking them to see more voltage than that isn't a great idea and could result in shortened injector life.

Further, though we've seen just a few FICM failures post-voltage mod, a few is a few too many. While the failures are largely related to the extra heat generated inside the module, the failure result is often catastrophic.  The heat just doesn't have a place to go in the sealed design of the FICM. 

Unlike conventional FICM failure mode where the module provides warnings over weeks through hard to start and poor fuel economy symptoms, voltage modified modules typically fail without warning at all.  You are driving down the road and then you are coasting to the side of the road wondering what that burning smell is.  That smell is quite sadly money going down the toilet.

In addition and somewhat related is that voltage modified modules tend to hide their failure symptoms.  In other words, there are plenty of cases where a module that's been modded appears to be outputting voltages in the proper ranges, but the signaling isn't right.  Given that the voltage output appears correct, you spend time chasing your tail by replacing parts that just don't need to be only to find out that it was the FICM all along.

Do yourself a favor and skip the voltage change. If you are having issues with injector stiction (the sticking of injectors when the engine is cold), consider migrating to a 10W30 or a 5W40 synthetic oil instead of changing the voltage on these units. The injectors are driven by oil in the 6.0 design. Keeping the lightest weight of oil possible along with keeping it regularly changed will go a long way towards engine longevity.

Using our Hot Shot Secret or Rev-X oil additive, which acts as a solvent to clean the varnish and goo that forms on the injector shuttle valves, is a good way to prolong injector life. More information on these products can be found by searching Hot Shot Secret.  While you're there, you might want to check out the Hot Shot Secret sister product, FP Diesel Extreme, or just pick up the Duo.

The custom PHP FICM programming takes all of the best things from all of the various FORD OEM programming strategies, rolls them together, and then adds in its own secret sauce to provide better drivability and the possibility of better fuel economy. On an 05 Excursion, we noted gains of about 2.5mpg in mixed highway/driving and much decreased turbo spool-up times with the 'Atlas 40' tune on top of the SCT 'street tune' that was already loaded. With the tune in place, when the light turns green, you go and go almost immediately now. The truck drives more like a gas truck than a diesel. Crazy spool-up times are a thing of the past!

Of course, everyone drives their truck differently. About 4 of 5 are noting better fuel economy numbers (2-3mpg seems to be the norm) regardless of which tune they elect (fuel economy benefits are the same regardless of tune selected), but nearly everyone tips their hat to the better drivability.

Given the same driving style, there won't be any real differences in fuel economy between the various tunes - the power tunes (Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and Hercules) just provide some extra ponies with the option of the better fuel economy and that decreased turbo lag that you get from the Eco tune alone. Some have seen a VERY slight mileage gain from the Atlas 40 over the Eco tune.

Note that those experiencing the highest mileage gains are coming from the latest version of Ford's software. Those using earlier software strategies report mixed results. While most still report some gain, perhaps 1 in 10 indicate no mileage gain at all.

Regardless of the tune you select, the price is $150 in addition to the cost of the base repair that you elect.

Absolutely! The charge for this service is $150 plus shipping back to you. Just fill out our Intake Form and go.  Of course, we can also ship you out a FICM tuner on loan so that you can tune your own FICM in your driveway.  More information can be found on our tuner rental pages!

The FICM tunes do not derive their power by advancing the timing like ECM-based tuners do. This advancing of the timing is what causes cylinder head pressures to increase.

The Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and Hercules tunes get their power by prolonging the burn. Basically, fuel is added to the fire already going as a result of the explosion in the cylinder. Testing performed by PHP confirmed that the tunes do not increase the pressure that the cylinders are under, but rather increase the amount of time that the cylinders are under pressure.

The result is increased exhaust gas temperatures with the Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and Hercules tunes. Exhaust gas temperatures do not differ from stock with the Eco tune.

There is a common misconception that the 2003, 2004 (and some say even 2005) model years somehow have less clamping force on the cylinder heads due to the use of 18mm head bolts. Actually, motors produced prior to January 11, 2006 use 18mm locating dowel pins - the actual head bolt size and resultant clamping force is identical between these earlier motors and the ones following that came with 20mm locating dowel pins. The reason for the dowel pin size was in preparation for the creation of the new 6.4L motors.

This question is best answered through our dedicated PHP Tunes page.

Yes! These other tuners tune only the ECM, not the FICM. The ECM, among other things, provides instructions to the FICM. When the FICM is programmed with a PHP tune, your ECM tune is not impacted. Rather, having the FICM tuned in many ways removes the limitations that the ECM has to live within!

Running larger than stock injectors is not a concern for the Eco tune or for the Atlas 40 tune, but some have noted that their truck 'lopes' and 'hunts' to find a good idle with the Atlas 80 or Hercules tunes. Some with larger injectors have also noted that the truck does not run smoothly until warm and/or dumps black smoke until warm with the Hercules tune.

To solve this issue, we recommend running our large injector tunes that are specifically written for injectors larger than the 155/30 size.  Just let us know what size injectors you are running and we'll handle the rest!

We have yet to hear anyone indicate to us that they failed a smog test due to one of our tunes and have sold countless tunes to people in places like California that have stringent smog testing requirements.

We maintain records of the software loaded on each customer's module before we replace it with a PHP tune. If you don't like the result of the tune you've selected, just ship the module back to us within 90 days and we'll change it back to your original tune and refund your money.  Note that this process holds true even for modules ordered on exchange, as we record the original tune from each customer's core as well for this same purpose.

NOTE:  We cannot offer a refund on tune's purchased but then overwritten by the customer or the customer's designee.  If you are unhappy with your tune, please contact us instead of overwriting the tune we provided you.

Possibly. There is one particular tune revision available from Ford for only a short time that killed FICM's and did so in short order. This software used an aggressive heat induction (think short circuit) out to all eight injectors at the same time to warm up the motor oil in each of the fuel injector heads when the key is turned to the 'on' position as part of the starting process.

The trouble is, much like your toaster, this pulls a tremendous amount of current - current that your module is just not rated to handle. The software is known as a 'FICM killer' for a reason! If you don't elect an aftermarket tune at the time of your order and we discover that you have one of these software revisions on your module, we'll reach out to you to discuss the benefits of moving to alternate software revisions.

The problematic FICM software is: ARZ2AL00 (2003-2004), ARZ2AL00 (04.5), and ARZ2AL01 (05 on up).

The 'latest' Ford software revisions (ARZ2AH10, ARZ2AL10, and ARZ2AL11) have a more 'mild' induction strategy, but these result in significant power losses. Most that have the 'latest' versions still love their 6.0's, but complain of horrible turbo lag (off the line performance), poor throttle response just generally, and poor fuel economy.

It is really easy to remove the FICM. Just disconnect your batteries to begin. The FICM is located on the driver's side typically under and to the passenger side of the coolant overflow reservoir. There are two workable methods to remove it.

Without draining coolant method (provides less room to work, but is faster):

       1. After letting the engine cool, remove and reinstall the reservoir cap to eliminate any built up coolant pressure.

       2. Remove the two bolts holding the reservoir in place.

       3. Using a plier, remove the hose clamp on the upper portion of the reservoir that is on the passenger side of the reservoir near the top. Set the hose aside, pointing it upwards to avoid coolant loss. Pull reservoir as far to the driver's side as possible to provide FICM screw access.

With draining coolant (dramatically more room to work):

       1. Drain perhaps a gallon or so out from beneath the radiator (the petcock valve is located on the driver's side)

       2. Remove the two bolts holding the reservoir in place

       3. Use a plier to remove the clamps from the hoses connecting the reservoir to the various hoses (on the underside and the upper passenger side). Set reservoir aside.

Common Next Steps

Regardless of which method you used above, you will now notice that there are four bolts holding the FICM. Remove these and then lift up on the FICM and note the three wiring harness plugs. First, push the plugs FURTHER IN to relieve any pressure against the clips. Then, squeeze each plug one at a time one at the base on the long edges and then pull these plugs straight down or wiggle them to and fro to get them out. That's it. The two bolts on the front are nearly always 10mm. The two in the back are difficult to see, but are 8mm.

If you experience diffculty getting the plugs to come out, some have reported luck using a pair of channel locks to GENTLY squeeze on the base of the locking connector and then wiggling the plug side to side in order to get it out.

In some very, VERY rare cases, units are not able to be repaired (generally as a result of having boards badly burnt following the catastrophic failure of one or more electronic components). If this is the case, we will just set you up with replacement boards as necessary with no additional fee to you, even if your module arrives to us completely burnt to a crisp. 

Feel free to send an email to info@usadiesel.com with any questions or concerns. THANK YOU!

If you aren't actually getting any codes, but would like to see if your FICM is the problem, you can easily test it for the most common of issues - low output voltage. In fact, we encourage that all of our customers test their FICM's if it all possible just to be sure that it is indeed the cause of the issue they are experiencing.  Note, though, that just because a FICM is outputting proper voltage, does not mean that it is good.  If you are not getting injector 'clatter' with the key on and engine off, this is yet another possible symptom of a bad FICM.  If you need further assistance with troubleshooting, find us on Facebook Messenger through our Facebook page or give us a call at 515-897-4459.

If you have a ScanGauge II/III (of course available pre-programmed from us!), Edge Insight CTS/CTS2/CTS3, or any number of the SCT devices (x4, Livewire TS, etc), you can directly determine the voltage of your module through it. Other monitoring tools also allow this functionality, so it may make sense to look. If you have a ScanGauge that you didn't get from us and are curious on how to program it to grab FICM data, see the near end of this page.

If you don't have a monitoring tool, consider getting one as they are incredibly powerful little money savers that can alert you to issues before they leave you stranded, but for now read on...

To get the clearance necessary for testing manually, you will have to disconnect the two 3/8" coolant lines on the degas bottle, remove the two bolts holding it to the firewall, and pull the degas bottle off to the driver side of the vehicle.  Be careful not to crack the bottom of the reservoir and feel free to drain some coolant and remove the reservoir entirely if that is a concern of yours.  Also, please remember that when testing, engine cranking is necessary.  As such, the water pump will be pumping coolant.  Take care to not let coolant into the now-open FICM!  

After the degas bottle is out of the way, you'll see a small rectangular plate held on with two T20 torx screws on the top of the FICM. Remove these and you'll see four or seven screws, depending on your model.

For Four Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the driver's side of the vehicle - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. To prevent the lead from touching the case, many wrap all but the lead tips in electrical tape.

For Seven Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the PASSENGER side of the vehicle in the row with four screws - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. 

Please do not concern yourself with the voltage on the other screws.  You only care about the voltage on the one specific to your style of FICM. 

You are looking for anything above 45 volts (48 is ideal) with the key in the on position and for this voltage to not drop during cranking and running.

If your voltage is lower than 45, repair is needed. If you show zero volts out of the FICM, check your FICM fuse - it is a 50amp maxifuse typically located in the panel behind the driver's left knee in (typically) position 103 for 2005 and older trucks.  In 2006 and 2007 F-Series trucks, look for a 30 amp maxifuse in the fuse box to the driver side of the master cylinder under the hood.

If your voltage DOESN'T drop below 45 and you want a more difficult stress test on your module, look for less than 45 volts in the morning when the engine is completely cold. You are looking to test the voltage during the following events:

1. Key off (0 volts)
2. Key on during buzz test (48 volts)
3. Key on after buzz test (48 volts)
4. Cranking (48 volts)
5. Running IMMEDIATELY after cold start and for the first minute (48 volts)
6. RPM's at 2000 after it's been started for a minute (48 volts)

Again, if the voltage drops below 45, even for a second, during any of these tests, the FICM needs repair.

Of course, it's materially easier to review these voltages with a monitor like the ScanGauge II, ScanGauge III, or, even better, the Edge Insight CTS3.

We will indeed work on previously worked on modules!  For modules sent in for repair, note that there is an extra $75 fee to cover this.  The previously worked on fee is not assessed when cores are returned through our Exchange program that have been previously worked on, though - yep, it's a loophole.  :)

Note, that FICM's 'remanufactured' by Ford are not considered 'previously worked on' unless someone else has worked on them after the Ford-approved remanufacturing process was completed.

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. One key point is to absolutely ENSURE that all three plugs 'click' back into place on both sides of each plug to ensure a good connection. The plug closest to the firewall is biggest bear of the three, but it's IMPERATIVE that it, too, clicks in. Some have had success using heavy duty zip ties like those used in the HVAC industry to help ratchet the plugs in as a way of getting them to click back on once again.

We used to believe that heat and vibration took the top spots, but have since come to the realization that low supply side voltage should take the top spot.

Yes, it doesn't take a genious to determine the inherent design issues with placing these modules on the top of an engine that gets pretty warm and vibrates continuously. What's not so clear, however, is that each morning you start your truck it is essentially running only on batteries until your glow plug circuit has completed since the alternator is not able to keep up with the 230 amp load associated with the glow plugs and the base motor draw. See items 13 and 14 on our Maintenance Tips page for more information.

Of course, this wreaks havoc on a module already asked to take the nominal 12 volts of supply voltage and convert it to the 45-50 volts expected.

On that front, recognize the need to maintain fully charged batteries - batteries with a float voltage of 12.6 or higher that don't dip terribly for the first few minutes of engine run time. While it's common to have people report that their batteries' voltage dips down to 11.4 or so during this time, it's these same people that have their FICM's fail and are left to wonder why.

An excellent primer on batteries can be found at Battery Stuff.com.

For the vibration, ensure that the grommets holding the mounting brackets to the FICM are still soft and pliable. If they aren't, get replacements. It might be a good idea to get different ones just regardless.

Yes. Please use this opportunity to electrically disconnect the batteries from each other by disconnecting the negative battery cable from one of them and get each fully charged using a charger that will desulfate your batteries. We recommend the Battery Tender and BatteryMINDER line of products, though any 'smart' charger should fit the bill. When the charge process is complete, you should see 12.7 or more volts at each battery. If you see less (anything less than, say, 12.5), recognize that your batteries have not been or are not able to any longer accept a full charge. If this is the case, please replace them before installing your replacement module to maintain your warranty coverage.

The average 6.0 user gets only about two years of life out of their batteries. Chances are good that yours are under warranty.

If you want to increase the life of your batteries moving ahead, consider picking up a 3 watt or so solar charger that you can leave on the dashboard to provide for a charging opportunity each time the sun shines.

Also, go ahead and check your FICM's wiring harness for any chafffing as this rubbing has been known to cause electrical shorts to ground. You'll obviously want to correct any issues noted before re-installing your freshly repaired module. Page six of the guide at Dealerconnection.com lists some of the more common chaffing locations.

All you have to do is reinstall your module and you are set! Just PLEASE ensure that all three connectors actively click into place on both sides of the connector. The back one nearest the firewall, especially, tends to give people the most trouble.

Once the truck starts again, use the opportunity to verify that the batteries are maintaining at least 11.8 volts right after startup and that the alternator is putting out 13.6 or more volts to the batteries (after the glow plug cycle is complete) to avoid having a repeat issue.

We understand the importance of your vehicle to you and your family. We work very hard to ensure a high levels of quality and strive to "get it right" every time. With that being said, electronic or part failures can occur. While we strive for perfection, if something does go awry we stand behind our work and the parts we have provided to you. If a problem does arise, we will get you taken care of by repair or replacement as necessary. Our reputation for taking care of customers is solid.

Standard Warranty Terms:
 Ford 6.0L FICM Modules - Assigned per service level purchased (1yr, 2yr, Lifetime)
  All Other Electronic Modules & Module Repairs - 1 year
  USA Diesel Alternators -  2 Year with Lifetime Warranty purchase option
  Ford Parts - Standard Ford/MotorCraft Warranty
  Aftermarket Parts - Per Product / Manufacturer Assigned

Our electronic module warranty covers your part from failure and damage caused by our work. Damage caused by an electrical shorts external to the module, water damage, collision, and/or running with inadequate supply side voltage (i.e. weak batteries, extended cranking sessions, failed alternator) do not fall under the warranty coverage terms. The warranty does no cover anything other than the part itself. (we do not cover towing bills, shop charges, labor, etc.)

        Note: If you have an issue with a part or module and seek to initiate a warranty claim, please call us first.   515-897-4459

In most cases, we're able to determine the cause of a module or part failure. If, after a full warranty eval/inspection, no clear signs of an externally induced failure are observed, we will accept responsibility and warranty the module. If our findings do clearly indicate an external cause of the failure, we'll work with you to help identify the cause so you can avoid additional problems in the future.

Individuals seeking warranty service are responsible for shipping the unit to our facility for diagnosis. Once received your unit will be fully evaluated. If the damage or root failure is found to be covered under warranty, your unit will be serviced and or replaced and shipped to you (via standard ground service) at no charge.

      Be advised of the following:
a)  If a module is sent in to us under the auspices of a warranty claim and the unit is found to be fully functional/operational, a $199 diagnostic fee and return shipping will be charged.
b) If a module is sent in under the auspices of a warranty claim and there is damage to the unit caused by out of spec operational conditions, repair fees may apply. Return shipping will be charges to the customer.
c) In any instance, if it has been more than 30 days since the original date of sale, the customer is responsible for covering return shipping charges.

We simply seek to serve customers in the best manner possible and stand behind our products. At the same time, if someone has a fault condition external to a unit that causes a unit damage or someone makes a faulty diagnosis on a module, the customer assumes responsibility for the related repair or diagnostic charges.

Avoiding down time: If a customer has a potential warranty claim, can't afford down time, and needs a replacement shipped proactively, we can certainly fulfill this request. It is not without risk. In that scenario, we charge full price for the proactive replacement. (as if you were a new customer). Once your "suspect" module arrived and a full warranty evaluation was completed, we would: (based on findings)
a) Manufacture or Product Defect - We'd refund the amount charged on the proactive replacement order (if within 30 days of purchase, we'll also cover the return shipping charges)
b) Fully Functional Module - Diag fee and return shipping charged - No refund issued
b) Damaged Module / External Cause - Diag fee. and return shipping will be charged - No refund on the proactive replacement will be issued

The above option, while far more convenient, does carry the risks outlined. Simply keep that in mind if you choose to go that route. We can appreciate how this might seem heavy-handed, but hope you understand that our time and resources are limited. If a module is sent in under warranty and is found to be working just fine we cannot sell it without having to disassemble, fully rebuild, and recondition the unit. If there is any way to have us first look at your module without having us send you a replacement proactively, that is the safer alternative even though it comes at the expense of dreaded downtime.

Ultimately, we are in business to help people stay on the road, not to leave them holding the bag. Our reputation for taking care of customers and providing solid products and service speaks for itself, and you can trust that we will deal with you in a fair and balanced manner.

There could be a logic board issue with the FICM, but more common with warm start trouble is an issue with the high pressure oil pump or the plumbing that connects to it. The pumps typically fail around 140,000 to 180,000 miles in the 03's and early 04's and sadly are a bear to replace. What happens in these earlier models is that a leak occurs in the system (from a popped out check ball or other failure) and then the pump loses the volume in the system necessary to fire the injectors. New versions of these oil pumps substitute a plug in lieu of a check ball.

The other pieces and parts that fail are the snap to connect (STC) fitting from the pump to the plumbing, the standpipes (accessible under the valve covers), or the dummy plugs on the oil rail (also under the valve covers). If you have a late 2004 or newer truck, this is nearly certainly where you'll want to check.

Most with high pressure oil system issues have symptoms including rough idle, hard to start warm (10-12 seconds is common), lack of typical acceleration, bucking and jerking at lower RPMs when driving down the road (when the pump is spinning more slowly), and a complete elimination of issues when the accelerator is pressed down enough to cause a downshift (since the oil pump now spins faster thus building up more oil volume). Also common with HPOP failures is for misfires to jump from one cylinder to the next.

Key to the diagnosis is also that HPOP issues have a tendency to come and go with changes in engine RPM, versus FICM issues which are consistent at given operating temperatures. A collection of videos on the diagnosis using an air test can be found on YouTube. Part 2 is here with the wrapup here. An air test showing the leak at the fitting is here.

Of course, if you have a way to measure your IPR duty cycles and see 85% oo during cranking, this is a sure fire way to know that you've got a leak. If you don't see 500psi or more build-up of Injection Control Pressure (ICP) during cranking, then the ECM won't give the green light to allow a start either. The IPR should be close to 24 at hot idle and and 27 or so at cold idle.

If you don't have guages to measure ICP, you can use a digital volt meter to convert the voltage to PSI, as follows:

Most see 1.3V-1.5V during cranking (900-1100psi).

If you have a glow plug code, you have a glow plug or glow plug harness issue and are not likely to have a FICM issue. Most find that replacing a glow plug necessitates changing out the glow plug wiring harness as well. A great write up is on FTE.

If all that broke is one or both of the clips that ensure that the plug doesn't work itself loose, many have had good luck using heavy duty zip ties around the module to keep the plugs fully seated. Others have had luck taking a maybe 10" section of radiator hose, sliting it length wise and installing it under the module as a way to press the plugs continually back in. If your damage is more severe or you just want the 'right' solution, there are two options. The first is a replacement harness, but be prepared for some sticker shock. The injector harness (the plugs nearest the front bumper) retails in the $200 range and the ECM harness (the biggest plug of the bunch) is closer to $800. Alternatively, you can try replacing the plug ends. A great write up can be found here. We can send you replacement plug ends, the tool to help with replacement of the plug ends, plug ends with pigtail wiring already attached as an alternative, harnesses, whatever you need!

There is a 50 amp fuse under the steering wheel. It's worth removing it and reinstalling it to make a fresh connection. If this fuse is blown, replace it. If it blows again, it's time to get your FICM serviced!

It's worth checking the 10 amp fuse in the black box under the hood near the drivers side hood hinge. Again, a removal and re-insertion can't hurt if its fine.

It could also be a FICM relay issue - most report it as being stamped with the 'engineering' part number F80B-14B192-AA - next to this 10 amp fuse near the drivers side hood hinge. It can never hurt to pull it out and reinstall it to verify that that doesn't solve your issue, but there is also huge logic in just replacing it rather than take a chance on a bad relay killing your FICM as they get weak over time. It's just good maintenance for any truck. We carry them for less than $40.

We test all FICM's before working on them. If a FICM is not damaged, it only gets worked on if you expressly want it upgraded. We have seen plenty of cases where a module had an issue, but the issue it had wasn't causing the symptoms that a truck was experiencing (meaning that the truck actually had more than one issue!). If we repaired your module, we cannot be responsible if your non-FICM related symptoms continue.

If you have any question whatsoever as to whether your FICM is the root of your issues, please contact us prior to sending in your module. We would be happy to troubleshoot with you!

Of course, if we did an exchange with you, we never saw your old module ahead of time. If you wanted to return the exchanged module, see the returns question below.

See our return policy page for our complete return policy. 

Yes! We offer three different sets of additives to solve these issues - Hot Shot Secret, RevX, and Archoil. As these products work in different ways to solve your issues, we recommend cycling between all three products with your oil changes and fuel top offs.

While nothing is as effective as taking your injectors apart and cleaning them with a solvent solution in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, all three will clean the coking that occurs over time around the injectors and their spool valves. Note that there is logic in cleaning the oil side and fuel side of your injectors, not just one or the other.

You mentioned programming the ScanGauge II. How can I do that (as sadly I didn't get the gauge from you and so am now stuck programming it!)?

Check out a great how-to video from one of our customers here.

Part of the draw of the ScanGauge II product is the ability to monitor items not native to the device - a feature not available on the Edge Insight CTS or CTS2 product. While it sure would be nice for a singular device to be able to support both audible alerts when thresholds are hit, monitor EGT's, AND be able to add in your own items of interest, for now, you may want to think about picking up BOTH the Insight CTS or CTS2 and the ScanGauge II.

For FICM voltage monitoring, program these 'X Gauges', by turning it on, clicking 'MORE' three times, and clicking the Version X-Gauge button:

FICM Vehicle Power - output is in volts. You are looking for numbers above 12.*
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP

FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts and be within 0.1 volts of your battery voltage readings)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP

FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-49.5, but never less than 45)
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP

* Ford's Technical Service Bulletin 09-24-03 says that this number should never drop below 10.25 volts for more than 60 seconds or below 9.0 volts for more than four seconds, but recognize that anything even remotely close to these numbers is putting wear on your FICM. If voltages drop into the 9's when cranking, it's time for a new pair of batteries.

On a 2005 Excursion fitted with the 6.0, a new set of 850CCA Energizer-branded batteries from Sam's Club at a 35° ambient temperature tested out at 12.78 volts at float (after they had been sitting all night), dropped to 12.0 volts during cranking, registered 12.2 volts during the first couple minutes of running while the glow plug circuit was still running (yes, your stock alternator is on during this time, but the glow plugs can run for up to two minutes EVERY cold start when it's cold outside, which is why short trips are murder on 6.0's batteries), comes up to 14.1 volts while the alternator is working to recharge everything after the glow plugs shut off, and ultimately dropped to 13.6 volts after the charging cycle was all but complete. Subsequent migration away from the stock alternator and into a 270XP DC Power alternator has resulted in voltages that never dip below 13.9.  Later migration to the Sears Die Hard Platinum 950CCA AGM batteries have improved the voltage readings even further.

The ScanGauge can have up to 24 X-Gauges programmed. Many enter the ones that they want alphabetically from #24 to #0 so it scrolls through logically. Here's a comprehensive (and alphabetized!) list of X-Gauges commonly of interest:

#1 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E022160E RXF: 04620516060E RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 1CM

#2 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E022160F RXF: 04620516060F RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 2CM

#3 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221610 RXF: 046205160610 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 3CM

#4 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221611 RXF: 046205160611 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 4CM

#5 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221612 RXF: 046205160612 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 5CM

#6 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221613 RXF: 046205160613 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 6CM

#7 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221614 RXF: 046205160614 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 7CM

#8 cylinder cumulative misfires
TXD: 07E0221615 RXF: 046205160615 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: 8CM

Accelerator Pedal Position Percent
TXD: 07E02209D4 RXF: 0462050906D4 RXD: 3008 MTH: 000100020000 NAM: AP%

Battery Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0221172 RXF: 046205110672 RXD: 3008 MTH: 000100100000 NAM: BAT

Boost
TXD: 686AF1010B RXF: 0441850B0000 RXD: 2808 MTH: 00910064FF88 NAM: BST

CVI VREF for calibration V
TXD: 07E0221155 RXF: 046205110655 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000133330000 NAM: CVI

Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445 RXF: 046285140645 RXD: 3010 MTH: 001D00500000 NAM: EBP

EGR Duty Cycle (Percent)
TXD: 07E022166E RXF: 04620516066E RXD: 3010 MTH: 006440000000 NAM: EGR

EGR Valve Position (Volts 0-5)
TXD: 07E022167E RXF: 04620516067E RXD: 3010 MTH: 000133330000 NAM: EGV

Engine Oil Temperature
TXD: 07E0221310 RXF: 046245130610 RXD: 3010 MTH: 00090005F05F NAM: EOT

Engine Run Time
TXD: 07DF011F RXF: 0441051F RXD: 2810 MTH: 0001003C0000 NAM: ERT

EGR Throttle Position Control Signal
TXD: 07E022096C RXF: 04620509066C RXD: 3010 MTH: 00647FFF0000 NAM: ETP

EGR Valve Position Desired (%)
TXD: 07E02209D2 RXF: 0462050906D2 RXD: 3010 MTH: 00647FFF0000 NAM: EVD

EGR Valve Position Measured (%)
TXD: 07E02209FE RXF: 0462050906FE RXD: 3010 MTH: 00647FFF0000 NAM: EVM

EGR Valve Position (mm)
TXD: 07E022096A RXF: 04620509066A RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: EVP

Fuel Injector #1 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3001 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI1

Fuel Injector #2 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3101 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI2

Fuel Injector #3 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3201 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI3

Fuel Injector #4 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3301 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI4

Fuel Injector #5 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3401 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI5

Fuel Injector #6 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3501 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI6

Fuel Injector #7 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3601 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI7

Fuel Injector #8 Commanded on (On/0ff)
TXD: 07E02209EF RXF: 0462250906EF RXD: 3701 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: FI8

Fuel Level
TXD: 007E02216C1 RXF: 0462451606C1 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000101480000 NAM: FL

FICM Logic Power (Volts - should be 12 or higher)
TXD: 07E02209CF RXF: 0462450906CF RXD: 3010 MTH: 006401000000 NAM: FLP

FICM Main Power (Volts) - Spec is 45 volts or higher - NEVER EVER lower than 45
TXD: 07E02209D0 RXF: 0462450906D0 RXD: 3010 MTH: 006401000000 NAM: FMP

Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds)
TXD: 07E0221410 RXF: 046205140610 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000800010000 NAM: FPW

Fan Speed Sensor (RPM)
TXD: 07E022099F RXF: 04620509069F RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100040000 NAM: FSS

FICM Vehicle Power (Should be 12 Volts and not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE RXF: 0462450906CE RXD: 3010 MTH: 006401000000 NAM: FVP

Horsepower
TXD: 00 RXF: 400080000000 RXD: 0000 MTH: 000A00240000 NAM: HPR

Intake Air Temperature 2 (Fahrenheit)
TXD: 07E02216A8 RXF: 0462051606A8 RXD: 3010 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: IA2

Injection Control Pressure (MUST BE OVER 500psi to have truck start, and should be in the low 600's at idle!)
TXD: 07E0221446 RXF: 046205140646 RXD: 3010 MTH: 003900640000 NAM: ICP

Injection Control Pressure Voltage (Should be 0.2-0.25 KOEO and > 0.93 during cranking)
TXD: 07E02216AD RXF: 0462451606AD RXD: 3008 MTH: 006400330000 NAM: ICV

IPR Duty Cycle % (should be around 10-15% KO, 22-30 at hot idle, and 60% oso cranking. 85% ding cranking=HPO issue/leak)
TXD: 07E0221434 RXF: 046285140634 RXD: 3008 MTH: 0DCA03E8000A NAM: IPR%

Injector Timing Before Top Dead Center (Degrees)
TXD: 07E02209CC RXF: 0462850906CC RXD: 3010 MTH: 000A00400000 NAM: ITM

Mass Fuel Desired
TXD: 07E0221412 RXF: 046245140612 RXD: 3010 MTH: 006400100000 NAM: MFD

Manifold Absolute Pressure - PSI
TXD: 07E0221440 RXF: 046285140640 RXD: 3010 MTH: 012203200000 NAM: PSI

PSI Boost
TXD: 07E0221440 RXF: 046285140640 RXD: 3010 MTH: 012203200000 NAM: PSI

Crankshaft Position Sensor
TXD: 07E02209CD RXF: 0462050906CD RXD: 3000 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: SYC

Camshaft and Crankshaft in sync (1= in sync)
TXD: 07E02209CD RXF: 0462050906CD RXD: 3001 MTH: 000100010000 NAM: SYC

Transmission Fluid Temperature
TXD: 07E1221674 RXF: 046205160674 RXD: 3010 MTH:000100080000 NAM: TFT

Throttle Position 1 (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220917 RXF: 046245090617 RXD: 3010 MTH: 0064040000000 NAM: TP1

Throttle Position 2 (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220918 RXF: 046245090618 RXD: 3010 MTH: 0064040000000 NAM: TP2

Throttle Position Actual (Degrees)
TXD: 07E022093C RXF: 04624509063C RXD: 3010 MTH: 0064020000000 NAM: TPA

Most turbo issues are caused by not properly exercising the turbo, which in turn causes the unison ring to stick. If you want to avoid this, either take your truck to maximum boost at least monthly to exercise the turbo veins or consider an aftermarket alternative. We carry turbos from multiple sources and would be glad to assist you in the selection of an upgrade.

Check out a great discussion on FTE with links to the turbo re-learn procedure (post #4) and tons of other useful information.